Do cosmetics have to be tested before they are marketed?
Is there a range of mandatory testing?
There is, but it depends on the type of cosmetic. I won't dwell on that, because this time I wanted to focus on tests that are not mandatory, but should be
Phototoxicity and photoallergy tests
Both are mainly conducted for photoprotective products or cosmetic raw materials. Paradoxically, chemical sunscreens, can cause adverse reactions when exposed to UV radiation. And as we know, cosmetics with SPF are applied when we are exposed to the sun. Therefore, it is arch-important to carry out the tests described. We decided to conduct these tests to our acid products
Simplified testing procedure
Phototoxic test:A mass of product is applied to a given area of skin, and then this area is exposed to a lamp that emits UVA, UVB and UVC radiation.
Photoallergic test:This involves putting on two rows of epidermal tests with the test product for 24 hours. Then, each area after the epidermal tests are removed is irradiated with UV light, over a slightly wider area than the skin previously covered by the patch.
After testing, the skin is observed for the development of a phototoxic and/or photoallergic reaction, such as fluid-filled blisters or increased erythema. Readings are taken at 24, 48, 72 and 96 hours after irradiation. The same irradiation patterns are repeated without applying the product to the test area. If the skin reaction is the same in both cases, then the absence of phototoxic and photoallergic reactions can be confirmed. Before testing, the skin phototype of each proband is determined, so that the result is the same regardless of sensitivity to sunlight
Before testing, the skin phototype of each proband is determined and the reaction to exposure without the tested cosmetic is checked
WHY DID WE OPT FOR IT?
Well, for a long time now, declarations about the absence of phototoxic and photoallergic effects have been placed on products with exfoliating acids
Unfortunately, manufacturers' assurances are usually not supported by studies of the cosmetic in question, and the acids used; which does not apply 1:1 to the finished cosmetic product. Remember that a cosmetic product is a mixture. Various chemical reactions take place between the raw materials that are combined, which often change the properties of the product in relation to the ingredients used. What's more, cosmetics also contain other raw materials, such as solvents or preservatives, which can already cause undesirable effects when exposed to UV radiation
As you know, SkinTra also declares the absence of phototoxic and photoallergic effects of All Year Round Tonic and Acid Peel. However, our declaration is the result of research conducted in this area. A total of 30 probands of phototypes I-III participated in the study. None experienced an adverse reaction. This means that the products can be used all year round, even in summer
Of course, it should be remembered that in a situation where a product has caused general sensitivity; the potential for discoloration or irritation is higher. However, this applies to all types of cosmetics, not just acid cosmetics. Therefore, it is important to be aware of our skin's reaction to acids